The word lagniappe (pronounced LAN-yap in French Creole) means “a little something extra.” Originating in the Incan Quechua as yapa, lagniappe has endured for centuries as a term for an unexpected bonus or treat. The Spanish adopted it, then it went to French to Louisiana Creole to New Orleans to New Orleans Cajun. Rhapsodizing about his discovery of lagniappe, Mark Twain compared it to the thirteenth roll in a baker’s dozen, a surprise gift for certain customers. Today, lagniappe has come to mean an atmosphere of generosity or an emotional extra.
Lagniappe Restaurant on the south end of Amelia Island is chef owner Brian Grimley’s lagniappe for us in Northeast Florida, his gift of a little more than is expected. More than a little, that is, for this is the culmination of everything he has learned from southern England to the Tidewater region, and then on to Amelia Island in 2000. He has sought to understand the history of foods and people in the American South, and it shows in his menu.
An “L’” on the menu indicates a Lagniappe special, as with the Southern L’ Cobb Salad or L’ Sauce on the popular cheeseburger. L’ Poutine switches up according to what is going on in the kitchen, as do the L’s Chicken, Catch, and Braise. My friend had the braise there recently and described it as “tender at the bone,” to borrow from Ruth Reichl. She eats pork only rarely and always at Lagniappe because they use Beeler’s Pork, “the cleanest, most real pork available,” she says.
My L’ friend Karen Langshaw and I had dinner there recently for a pre-holiday toast. We started with Fried Green Tomatoes with Pimento Cheese. (How I miss Mama’s “paminna” cheese.) Then we tried the Blue Corn-Crusted Catfish with Hoppin’ John, Crawfish Etouffée, and Pickled Collard Greens, which really stirred our Southern fires. In my Country Captain Salmon, the Charleston curry flavors were warm and flavorful, with Carolina Gold Rice and Lentil Daal, and a tomato jam providing a nice balance. And Brussels sprouts. If Brussels sprouts are not included in a dish, I like to get one for the table, especially at the L’.
The spirit of lagniappe is in their cocktails, too, starting with the Sazerac, of course. The Snarky Bee has house-made honey syrup. Iced tea and peach comprise the French Quarter Mule and River Street Peach Tea. Woodford Reserve bourbon highlights Blackberry Bourbon Lemonade and the Smoked Manhattan, or get L’ Fashioned. The Mac Nut Old-Fashioned may replace my favorite The Spice of Life, a spicy fruity flavor I cannot forget, trading fruity for nutty, so to speak. L’ Espresso Martini is one of the finest in the area.
The Italian-American Christmas Eve tradition of the Feast of the Seven Fishes is a specialty at Lagniappe, one of the only restaurants that celebrates it. For this reason, it books quickly! This will be Brian’s fifteenth annual Feast of the Seven Fishes.
With Brian and the staff, the good times do indeed roll. One year, Karen and I had a fun Mardi Gras at Lagniappe. They do throw a party! With seating in the private dining room, big booths, tables, patio, and bar, Lagniappe can accommodate whatever event you have in mind. The restaurant closes only on Christmas, New Year’s Day, Independence Day, and Super Bowl Sunday. Book early, Lagniappe is popular. Lagniappe is located at 4810 First Coast Highway.